How to Buy the Perfect Engagement Ring. A jeweller’s guide to diamonds, lab stones, and real value

This is the kind of commercials you saw if you were getting married in the 20th century. 

For decades, De Beers poured millions of dollars into this marketing campaign with one goal in mind: to make diamonds the currency of love.

Generations of men and women grew up believing that love was measured not in feelings, but in carats. The greater the cost, the more the love counted. Diamonds became the symbol of marriage. And De Beers grew into the biggest, most important diamond business in the world. Posting record sales year after year after year. 

Until everything changed. The billion dollar narrative fell on its face. People stopped buying ridiculously expensive diamonds. De Beers went from record profits to record loss. The market collapsed and the diamond world changed forever. But what happened?

I’m a jeweler down here in Miami’s premier jewelry district. I've been in the business for over 10 years. And since I first started, a lot has changed. 

Picture two exact rings. They are the same diamond, the same material, same carat, same size. One costs about 40,000. The other, about 5,000. Why? The first got dug up from the ground, and the other was made in a lab. This is why De Beers’ prices are crumbling. You no longer have to spend three months of salary to get that special someone their dream stone. 

So, how much should you spend on an engagement ring? What is the difference between a lab diamond and a natural diamond? Where should you go to buy an engagement ring?

If you are in the market for an engagement ring, you found the right place. Welcome to the ultimate guide to buying your forever diamond. 

What engagement ring design should I choose?

It's very very important for you to choose what type of cut you want the main stone to be. The round cut is what you see more often.  There's a radiant cut, which is a little bit more square. There's Asscher cut diamonds, emerald cut, teardrops. There are so many of them. So, first choose what cut you want that center stone, then build the ring around it. 

Remember, do not buy a ring style based on what you like. This ring is not for you. It’s for your special someone. Look at the jewelry they already have, and make sure it matches the flow. If that person rocks a lot of dainty jewelry, make sure not to overexaggerate with something huge. Do the research before you make the final decision.

What’s the best material to use for an engagement ring? 

You have plenty of options for an engagement ring, Gold, which comes in rose, white, and yellow gold. Then, of course, there's platinum. The material is strictly up to whatever kind of jewelry your partner already has. The last thing you want to do is to have a gold chain, gold earrings, and then a rose gold band. Look at what they already have, then choose the color appropriately. 

What size engagement ring should I get? 

This is an easy one. Go on Amazon and buy a ring size cone. These are going to slide down and stop when you have the right ring size. Buy one and use an old ring to find out exactly what size they are. 

What is the difference between lab and natural diamonds?

The difference between lab diamond and natural diamond is zero. They are both chemically and optically the exact same stone. A diamond is 99.99% carbon. Whether it's made in a lab or whether it's dug up from under the ground, it's the exact same thing. The only question you should be asking yourself is what sort of value you give to each stone. 

Are you more environmentally friendly? Do you want something that's sustainable, or do you want something that took thousands and thousands of years to make? Ask yourself: is it important to me that something was either made in a lab or not?

Of course, there's the value aspect of it. One is going to be a lot more money than the other one. For example, take a 4K radiant cut lab grown diamond. Say this stone was natural. In the same quality and same type of cut, you're looking at something that's over $120,000. Because this is a lab diamond, you're looking at around $5,000 - $6,000, depending on where you purchase it from. 

The perfect example is ice. Whether it's created on top of a mountain or in your refrigerator, it's the exact same thing. It's still going to cool your drink down. Think of a lab diamond exactly the same way.

If you want an even more in-depth answer to that question, we made a video about it. We actually went to India. Check it out. It's very, very interesting and you can learn a lot about lab diamonds and how they're actually made. And of course, if they're both the same, then my suggestion would be go with the lab diamond. It gives you a lot more versatility and a lot more budget when it comes to adding certain design elements.

You can put more diamonds in different places. 

How much money should I spend on an engagement ring? 

Let's get something clear. You do not have to spend three months’ salary. That is the De Beers gimmick. The game has completely changed. My recommendation is to buy something that's moderate. There are better ways to spend your money than something like a ring, especially when you are about to embark on a brand new relationship. A lot of people have this preconceived notion that if they don't spend thousands and thousands of dollars, then that means they don't love their spouse. That's a load of crap. Don't spend more than you can afford. Don't fall into that marketing scam. Spend the money right and look for alternative options. There are stones that don't cost as much that look just as beautiful. You don't need to spend 3 months of your salary. That is for damn sure. 

What are the four C's of diamonds? 

The most important is cut:  how well they cut the stone, how brightly it shines. The second one is clarity. How many pieces of carbon are inside the stone, and how clear is it? Then there's carat, how much weight a diamond has. And lastly, the color. But what is the color of a diamond? Does it have no color at all, or does it have a slightly brownish yellowish tinge to it? This is how diamonds are graded, how much value is given to the diamond. The better the cut, the clarity, the carat and the more weight it has, the higher the price. 

The cut matters most. Cut is very important because it brings out the shine of the diamond itself. A diamond might not have the best clarity or the best color, but if it’s cut perfect, it's going to catch light no matter where it is. So, you give the illusion of a much more expensive stone without paying so much for it.  Focus on cut before anything. The second focus is color, because you don't want something to have a yellowish tint. Clarity doesn’t matter as much, because most stones that you're going to buy for an engagement ring are going to be under the two karat stone weight. The smaller the stone, the less noticeable the imperfections are. So we look at weight. Go with a 1 and 1/2 to 2 on the higher end, .75 to a 1 carat stone on the normal end. All in all, I can go on for about an hour, but just focus on the cut and focus on the color. If you're going to go lab, most labs are already going to come with outstanding cuts and outstanding clarity. So, you don't have to worry about so much of the 4C's when you go with lab. That's another big advantage of it. And of course, the price is going to be good, too.

Does certification matter for my engagement ring?

We already spoke about the four C's, but there are two main companies that certify that everything that the jeweler is saying is exactly true. The biggest is Gemology Institute of America (GIA). They're located in New York, and they have the most prestige. They grade natural diamonds. For lab diamonds, it’s International Gemological Institute (IGI). Now, what do these things even matter? They matter for the resale or for peace of mind. So, let's say you go down to a jewelry store, you buy a 4K natural diamond, and the price is $120,000. Now, you can go ahead and just believe the person that is telling you this or you could say, "Hey, let me have the certification." Bigger stones are usually always going to have certifications because again, they help that peace of mind and secure the deal for these big ticket items. But you don't necessarily need it. 

Don't buy the piece, buy the jewelry store. Trust that where you're going has a nice reputation, that thye have plenty of Google reviews, and that they are giving you what they say they’re giving you. I don't really think that every single stone should be certified, but if it gives you that peace of mind, do it. 

There's a second part to this, which of course is the resale value. Because you have that certification, they're able to know exactly what the grade of that diamond is. So, it does add some value to it. Not by much. Don't think it's a dealbreaker or anything like that. Don't get so hellbent on it. It's like people asking, should my watch should have a box and papers? I say get the best value stone. Get the best value watch, rather than the certification that comes with it.

Where should I buy an engagement ring, and does the jeweler matter?

Yes, the jeweler definitely matters when buying an engagement ring. Avoid the very big time names, Their premiums are going to be much higher than a mom and pop jeweler. Go with someone local. They're going to give you a better deal. However, make sure that what they're selling you is true. You could even get it verified once you leave their store by another jeweler. Also things like certification, what we just spoke about. Ultimately, make sure you are doing your homework on the person that you're purchasing it from. Online retailers are the tricky part because you're not really looking at the stone. That one, do an extra layer of homework. Buy the jeweler, don't buy the stone. It's my recommendation because at the end of the day, this diamond industry is shady. It's so important for you to buy the jeweler, not the stone. It's pivotal.

What is the resale value of natural diamonds and lab diamonds? 

I know it's a little sad to talk about if things go wrong, but we are all realists here and we know that it might potentially happen. Let's just air the room and talk about it once and for all. If you buy a natural diamond, you are going to be expecting big losses. Most of the time, it's anywhere from 80% - 90% of the ring’s original value. If you bought something for $20,000, expect to resell it for about $3,000 - $4,000. With a lab diamond you’ll lose all of it, other than the value of the gold band or the ring itself. Say you buy a $100,000 ring. When you go to resell it, someone is only going to give you about 20%, or maybe 25% if you’re lucky. Overall, you lost around $75,000. With a lab diamond you're spending about $10,000 for that ring, but you're going to lose all of it. In the end, if you do the math, what more do you want to lose: $80,000 of $100,000, or $10,000. In lab diamonds, you're going to lose a lot less. Think about that before you make the decision on which one you want to go with. 

I hope you found value in this guide. Maybe you still have some more questions that I haven't answered. If you're in the market for an engagement ring, we create engagement rings from scratch. We have some that are already made. And if you want to talk about your idea, please let us know, give us a call or shoot us an email. We answer all inquiries within 24 hours. Don't hesitate in asking any questions to the jeweler that you choose.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Are lab-grown diamonds real diamonds?

Yes, lab-grown diamonds are 100% real diamonds. They have the exact same chemical, physical, and optical properties as natural diamonds — the only difference is that one is created in a lab and the other is mined from the earth.

2. How much should I spend on an engagement ring?
Forget the old “three months’ salary” rule — that was a marketing tactic by De Beers. Spend only what you’re comfortable with. A thoughtful, well-designed ring matters more than the price tag.

3. Which diamond cut is best for an engagement ring?
The most popular cut is the round brilliant because of its sparkle. However, cuts like radiant, emerald, Asscher, or pear (teardrop) are also beautiful choices. Choose a shape that fits your partner’s style and personality.

4. What’s the main difference between gold and platinum bands?
Gold (available in yellow, white, and rose) is classic, versatile, and slightly more affordable. Platinum is more durable and hypoallergenic, but also heavier and more expensive. Choose the metal that matches your partner’s existing jewelry.

5. Do diamonds have resale value?
Natural diamonds lose around 80–90% of their value after purchase, while lab-grown diamonds have almost no resale value beyond the metal in the ring. Engagement rings should be seen as sentimental pieces, not financial investments.